Sunday 6th May 2007
Home coming & Home leaving
Last weekend I went home to Sydney for my sisters wedding.
It was nice, but weird, being at home and seeing my whole family together. Even after my short time in Cambodia, Sydney seemed so sanitized, organised and developed. And it was a little difficult to adjust. In the car on the way from the airport, people were discussing Sydney’s tunnels, on talk back radio. Having just got off the plane from Cambodia, it just sounded like a bunch rich people whinging about nothing. It seemed like such a non issue compared to what people go through here. But, if I have learnt anything while I have been away it is that everything is relative to your own experiences. You deal with what you are given.
On the up side I got curl up under the covers in my comfy bed, wash my clothes properly and have a hot shower. It was good to feel the dust and sweat wash away and to put on clean crisp clothes. Although it was pretty cold and I immediately started to sniffle as I walked out of the airport.
The wedding was a lot of fun. It was good to see everyone together, all dressed up and happy. I am really happy for my sister, Meredith, and Don, they have been together for a long time, and I think it is a good thing for their relationship to take the final step. I can’t imagine what it would be like without Don around, it seems like he has been a part of our family for such a long time. They got married and St Patrick’s Catholic Church in the City and had the reception in the Sebel (on the old Pier One) which was pretty schmick. The food was great and I made the most of it. At the moment they are in Tahiti soaking up the sun on their honey moon…
So, I had a whirl-wind three days in Sydney, but still managed to catch up with some friends at the Courtie, by some more clothes and replace my reading glasses which I lost of the back of a moto, before I flew back.
It felt like a long time travelling, even though I managed to sleep a bit, and I was exhausted by the time I got to Phnom Penh. It was weird, I felt quite anxious and out of sorts until I got back to our house in Kampong Thom. I guess it is all part of this culture shock and reverse culture shock thing they told us about. Some part of me feels like this is home now (well for a while).
It is cooler today, the first cool day I have spent here, and there is a nice breeze blowing. At the moment I am sitting on our front veranda looking out over the muddy waters of the Stung Sen River. On the opposite bank, I can see cows grazing, some wooden boats, up turned and a row of wooden/thatch huts mounting the rise. A little golden dog is sniffing around the front of our gates trying to find a way in. Occasionally, a moto putters past, a cow moos, or my neighbours yell something to each other or clink a bowl, but aside from that, it is just the sound of the rustling leaves and the birds chirping. It is really quite peaceful in Kampong Thom on the weekend. It really is a rural town. I have really been enjoying the chance to relax and have spent most of the day lazing back in a hammock reading a book (Cloudstreet by Tim Winton).
While I was away there has been some rain about the province, so things are looking a bit greener. The difference was quite noticeable from the bus as we sped past the vast rice fields. It has also meant an explosion of bugs. I turned on a fluoro light the other night and, within seconds, there was a cloud of them whirling around. This has meant the implementation of a new lighting strategy around the house. Instead of turning the inside lights on, we turn the outside lights on and the inside ones off, and the bugs tend not to bother us as much. Out in the fields and along the road side the locals have erected big plastic sheet with water troughs at the bottom. At night they turn on purple fluorescent lights to attract the bugs and they catch them in the water trap. You can buy bags of fried crickets everywhere around town. I will have a go, but I have to prepare myself for it first. One of my colleagues offered me one the other day, but I feeing a bit queasy as it was and just couldn’t do it. Just watching her was enough.
I did have a go at some of the beetle nut that they old ladies chew on instead of tobacco. I can’t say I liked it; it was quite bitter and peppery, I spat it out after a little, but my mouth still went numb. Strange. It is not cool for women to smoke here, so they eat the beetle nut instead.
The other day I went out on a field trip with my boss and some of the guys from work. It was quite a revelation to me to find that there is a second, better and bigger, market in Kampong Thom. It seems that I managed to miss a whole part of the town, on the left as you cross the river. It really doesn’t look like anything is down there, but it appears there is heaps of houses and that they go on for quite a way along the river. Kampong Thom is much bigger than I first thought (it’s more of a two horse town, not just a one horse). I guess it is the provincial capital. Still, there isn’t that much to see or do. Most of the action happens on the main street.
Although I haven’t been around much in the last few weeks work is also picking up. I am conducting a review of their current local governance project and looking around for funding to support it in the future. My boss is also looking at getting involved in a land rights campaign, which I think is particularly cool, but might be a bit dangerous as it could put the organisation at odds with some powerful people. So I am in two minds about it.
Outside of work life in Kampong Thom is coming along as well.
On Friday, I bought a volley ball net and ball. We have set up a bit of a court in our front yard. The boys from the office came around and we promptly popped the ball on the barbed wire lining the top of our neighbour’s fence. So we went and got some beer and pig innards and drank the night away instead. We made quite a mess and in the morning the sight of pig innards warming in the sun did nothing for my hang over. Thankfully, our cleaner came to the rescue and cleaned it all up while I slept off my hangover. She’s a gem! Don’t know how I got by without her!
Yesterday we fixed the ball and half the neighbourhood turned up for a game. It was fun, but hot, and I was drenched in sweat and buggered by the end. It turns out my friend Mab is quite the star about town he played volley ball for the Cambodian National team, although they could never afford to travel out of Cambodia to play in tournaments so they only played the occasional game against a visiting neighbour. I tell you what, for a little guy he sure can jump for the spikes.
I am also getting known around town, some people know I speak a little Khmer and stop me to have a little chat. Most of the time I just smile, nod and agree. Usually, I have no idea what they are saying to me except for the odd phrase like ‘are you married?’ or ‘where are you going?’ - I have moments of brilliance in Khmer, but most of the time I struggle still. My Khmer teacher wants me to take more lessons, so I get better quicker. Actually, to go off on a tangent, I told my Khmer teacher that my parents were ‘retired’ and she thought that I was saying that they had passed away. It was a bit of an awkward conversation correcting her, as some time had passed before I realised; she clearly felt sorry for me and was lining me up with orphan friends. Ahh, cultural misunderstandings…
That is one of the other cool things I have come to like about the Khmer culture. When people go through stuff, they never do it alone. They really pull together and look after everyone in the community. For example, one of the younger girls at work, who has lost her mother, has a very close relationship with one of the older women. They call each other sister, hang out after work and do stuff that sisters do.
On the flip side though I have been having a hard time getting across the point that I chose live on my own at home. They simply don’t understand that if I am not married, why I wouldn’t live with my parents. I could think of two good reasons (sorry mum & dad – you know you wouldn’t want me there anyhow).
My health is also improving. After taking antibiotics and using some cream, my spots seem to be going away at last. I am almost back to full health, but I do have to make the trip back to Phnom Penh to see the doctor for a follow up at some point. When I go to stay in Phnom Penh, I usually stay with my friends, also from the AYAD program, Kate, Bec and Sophie. They have a spare bed in a top floor unit. They have a great upstairs part from which you look out over the southern part of Phnom Penh. They sit up there and sip on G&T’s most afternoons, something I am quite partial to. I watched the sun rise from up there just before leaving for Sydney and had a little moment to myself. I was spending so much time at the girls place just before I left for Sydney that I started to feel like I was the fourth housemate…the tuk tuk driver on the corner outside their place knows my name!
Next weekend is another long weekend. We have a two day public holiday for King Norodom’s birthday. Given that I missed a public holiday while I was in Sydney that will make it six public holidays since I have been in Cambodia. It is pretty cool if you ask me. I think I might go west and catch up with my friend Lainie, maybe spend some time in Battambang or something.
Also, big thanks to my cousins, who donated and collected some toys for the kids over here. MODE runs a ‘Happy Happy Children’ program for orphans and vulnerable children, so the toys will go towards that. I will take some pictures for you.
Take Care
Erin
Home coming & Home leaving
Last weekend I went home to Sydney for my sisters wedding.
It was nice, but weird, being at home and seeing my whole family together. Even after my short time in Cambodia, Sydney seemed so sanitized, organised and developed. And it was a little difficult to adjust. In the car on the way from the airport, people were discussing Sydney’s tunnels, on talk back radio. Having just got off the plane from Cambodia, it just sounded like a bunch rich people whinging about nothing. It seemed like such a non issue compared to what people go through here. But, if I have learnt anything while I have been away it is that everything is relative to your own experiences. You deal with what you are given.
On the up side I got curl up under the covers in my comfy bed, wash my clothes properly and have a hot shower. It was good to feel the dust and sweat wash away and to put on clean crisp clothes. Although it was pretty cold and I immediately started to sniffle as I walked out of the airport.
The wedding was a lot of fun. It was good to see everyone together, all dressed up and happy. I am really happy for my sister, Meredith, and Don, they have been together for a long time, and I think it is a good thing for their relationship to take the final step. I can’t imagine what it would be like without Don around, it seems like he has been a part of our family for such a long time. They got married and St Patrick’s Catholic Church in the City and had the reception in the Sebel (on the old Pier One) which was pretty schmick. The food was great and I made the most of it. At the moment they are in Tahiti soaking up the sun on their honey moon…
So, I had a whirl-wind three days in Sydney, but still managed to catch up with some friends at the Courtie, by some more clothes and replace my reading glasses which I lost of the back of a moto, before I flew back.
It felt like a long time travelling, even though I managed to sleep a bit, and I was exhausted by the time I got to Phnom Penh. It was weird, I felt quite anxious and out of sorts until I got back to our house in Kampong Thom. I guess it is all part of this culture shock and reverse culture shock thing they told us about. Some part of me feels like this is home now (well for a while).
It is cooler today, the first cool day I have spent here, and there is a nice breeze blowing. At the moment I am sitting on our front veranda looking out over the muddy waters of the Stung Sen River. On the opposite bank, I can see cows grazing, some wooden boats, up turned and a row of wooden/thatch huts mounting the rise. A little golden dog is sniffing around the front of our gates trying to find a way in. Occasionally, a moto putters past, a cow moos, or my neighbours yell something to each other or clink a bowl, but aside from that, it is just the sound of the rustling leaves and the birds chirping. It is really quite peaceful in Kampong Thom on the weekend. It really is a rural town. I have really been enjoying the chance to relax and have spent most of the day lazing back in a hammock reading a book (Cloudstreet by Tim Winton).
While I was away there has been some rain about the province, so things are looking a bit greener. The difference was quite noticeable from the bus as we sped past the vast rice fields. It has also meant an explosion of bugs. I turned on a fluoro light the other night and, within seconds, there was a cloud of them whirling around. This has meant the implementation of a new lighting strategy around the house. Instead of turning the inside lights on, we turn the outside lights on and the inside ones off, and the bugs tend not to bother us as much. Out in the fields and along the road side the locals have erected big plastic sheet with water troughs at the bottom. At night they turn on purple fluorescent lights to attract the bugs and they catch them in the water trap. You can buy bags of fried crickets everywhere around town. I will have a go, but I have to prepare myself for it first. One of my colleagues offered me one the other day, but I feeing a bit queasy as it was and just couldn’t do it. Just watching her was enough.
I did have a go at some of the beetle nut that they old ladies chew on instead of tobacco. I can’t say I liked it; it was quite bitter and peppery, I spat it out after a little, but my mouth still went numb. Strange. It is not cool for women to smoke here, so they eat the beetle nut instead.
The other day I went out on a field trip with my boss and some of the guys from work. It was quite a revelation to me to find that there is a second, better and bigger, market in Kampong Thom. It seems that I managed to miss a whole part of the town, on the left as you cross the river. It really doesn’t look like anything is down there, but it appears there is heaps of houses and that they go on for quite a way along the river. Kampong Thom is much bigger than I first thought (it’s more of a two horse town, not just a one horse). I guess it is the provincial capital. Still, there isn’t that much to see or do. Most of the action happens on the main street.
Although I haven’t been around much in the last few weeks work is also picking up. I am conducting a review of their current local governance project and looking around for funding to support it in the future. My boss is also looking at getting involved in a land rights campaign, which I think is particularly cool, but might be a bit dangerous as it could put the organisation at odds with some powerful people. So I am in two minds about it.
Outside of work life in Kampong Thom is coming along as well.
On Friday, I bought a volley ball net and ball. We have set up a bit of a court in our front yard. The boys from the office came around and we promptly popped the ball on the barbed wire lining the top of our neighbour’s fence. So we went and got some beer and pig innards and drank the night away instead. We made quite a mess and in the morning the sight of pig innards warming in the sun did nothing for my hang over. Thankfully, our cleaner came to the rescue and cleaned it all up while I slept off my hangover. She’s a gem! Don’t know how I got by without her!
Yesterday we fixed the ball and half the neighbourhood turned up for a game. It was fun, but hot, and I was drenched in sweat and buggered by the end. It turns out my friend Mab is quite the star about town he played volley ball for the Cambodian National team, although they could never afford to travel out of Cambodia to play in tournaments so they only played the occasional game against a visiting neighbour. I tell you what, for a little guy he sure can jump for the spikes.I am also getting known around town, some people know I speak a little Khmer and stop me to have a little chat. Most of the time I just smile, nod and agree. Usually, I have no idea what they are saying to me except for the odd phrase like ‘are you married?’ or ‘where are you going?’ - I have moments of brilliance in Khmer, but most of the time I struggle still. My Khmer teacher wants me to take more lessons, so I get better quicker. Actually, to go off on a tangent, I told my Khmer teacher that my parents were ‘retired’ and she thought that I was saying that they had passed away. It was a bit of an awkward conversation correcting her, as some time had passed before I realised; she clearly felt sorry for me and was lining me up with orphan friends. Ahh, cultural misunderstandings…
That is one of the other cool things I have come to like about the Khmer culture. When people go through stuff, they never do it alone. They really pull together and look after everyone in the community. For example, one of the younger girls at work, who has lost her mother, has a very close relationship with one of the older women. They call each other sister, hang out after work and do stuff that sisters do.
On the flip side though I have been having a hard time getting across the point that I chose live on my own at home. They simply don’t understand that if I am not married, why I wouldn’t live with my parents. I could think of two good reasons (sorry mum & dad – you know you wouldn’t want me there anyhow).
My health is also improving. After taking antibiotics and using some cream, my spots seem to be going away at last. I am almost back to full health, but I do have to make the trip back to Phnom Penh to see the doctor for a follow up at some point. When I go to stay in Phnom Penh, I usually stay with my friends, also from the AYAD program, Kate, Bec and Sophie. They have a spare bed in a top floor unit. They have a great upstairs part from which you look out over the southern part of Phnom Penh. They sit up there and sip on G&T’s most afternoons, something I am quite partial to. I watched the sun rise from up there just before leaving for Sydney and had a little moment to myself. I was spending so much time at the girls place just before I left for Sydney that I started to feel like I was the fourth housemate…the tuk tuk driver on the corner outside their place knows my name!
Next weekend is another long weekend. We have a two day public holiday for King Norodom’s birthday. Given that I missed a public holiday while I was in Sydney that will make it six public holidays since I have been in Cambodia. It is pretty cool if you ask me. I think I might go west and catch up with my friend Lainie, maybe spend some time in Battambang or something.
Also, big thanks to my cousins, who donated and collected some toys for the kids over here. MODE runs a ‘Happy Happy Children’ program for orphans and vulnerable children, so the toys will go towards that. I will take some pictures for you.
Take Care
Erin
1 comment:
Hi Erin,
It was good to briefly catchup at the wedding.
Your dad forwarded your blog to me and I find it very interesting. With your openness and sense of adventure.
May the rest of your time bring continued encouragement, particularly the Khmer language.
Faye & I have friends who teach at the Phnom Penn Bible College. Gilbert is also translating scripture in Khmer with the assistance of students. They are presently back in Oz on furlough.
Waiting for the next chapter in your adventure.
Regards, Barry L
Post a Comment